Showing posts with label Seafood. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Seafood. Show all posts

Tuesday, July 8, 2008

Restaurant: Grand Central Oyster Bar


Every year around the beginning of June my father and I make plans to head to the Grand Central Oyster Bar because the fresh herring fleet shipment comes in all the way from the Netherlands. The Oyster Bar is a hidden treasure nestled in the revamped subterranean depths of Grand Central and has that unique combination of old New York and modern New York. We always skip the fancier bar and dining room and opt for the regular restaurant. In the past I used to drop in after work for a quick bite at one of the counters, but this was always in the non-herring season.

The excellent chowders and raw oysters are always a draw for me, and up until about 10 years ago would have started my meal. Since that breakthrough day I always get what my dad gets, 2 fresh Dutch herring with the trimmings. At the Oyster Bar this means two boned fillets with finely chopped onion, chives and hard boiled egg. This simple combination of extremely fresh flavorful fish with a little of each trimming makes for something that really is hard to describe. The fish is silky and buttery, almost melting in your mouth with each bite. And, despite the strong flavor of onion, chive and egg, the herring bursts through with a strong distinct flavor that is far from "fishy". Paired with a pint of Heineken, it's the ideal Dutch snack, in the heart of Manhattan. Almost always those first two herring are gone, and we are quickly ordering a third and, sometimes even a fourth. Needless to say it is quite a tradition, and is not something I would recommend eating prior to being in any sort of social situation where someone will be close enough to smell your breath.

Main courses are what you would expect at an old school seafood restaurant. The fish is extremely fresh, perfectly cooked, and the star of any plate, not the accent. Almost every fish, crab, lobster, oyster and clam can be ordered any way you want it from blackened to grilled or fried. Sometimes the simplest preparation is the best way to enjoy fish, and the Oyster Bar does this better than anyone. Usually the only question you need to answer is which type of fish do I want, Mahi Mahi or Dorade to name just a few, and do I want it Cajun or broiled with a spritz of lemon? Either way you can't go wrong. My traditional main course, however, is always fried oysters and french fries. The freshness of the oysters, and the light crispy batter they are fried in make for bite size morsels that taste more like oysters and less like a fried food. The standard thin cut crispy fries are nothing to rave about, but always manage to get finished despite themselves. Simply put, squeeze some lemon on the oysters and skip the ketchup or tartar sauce and just enjoy a basic pleasure in life that everyone should indulge in at least once a year.

I probably shouldn't be telling you this part, but if you ever do make it to the Oyster Bar no meal is complete without exploring a strange oddity of architecture outside the restaurant. Due to the high arches, and marble interior, if you stand in the corners diagonally across from each other and speak into the wall you can talk with the other person like they are whispering in your ear. Despite the distance, you feel like you are having a conversation with them right next to you. Of course there is also the fun of other people not in the know looking at you oddly like you might be crazy or in need of a bathroom.

Real herring, not something in a cream sauce

Thursday, September 6, 2007

Restaurant: Frisky Oyster


The Frisky Oyster is in Greenport Long Island, but when you sit down it's like your in some hot trendy place down in Soho or the Meatpacking District. The music is mainly house, the walls are covered with soft flowery fabric with not too much light and candles on the tables. All the waiters and waitresses are attractive, and are extremely attentive. Oh yeah, and they even serve food too. Getting a table there this past Sunday for Labor Day weekend is clearly not an easy task, there were tons of people waiting at the bar and up front. I managed to have a nice glass of syrah to start while filling up on some bread (which you probably could get better at a sports bar). The appetizer, however, was great. Shelter Island oysters with an apple mignette went really nicely, but then again, how hard is it to make an oyster taste good when they are fresh. The mignette was just the right amount of acid, but I didn't really taste much apple. Other people at my table had some of their salads, one of which I have to admit I wish I ordered. The country salad came with crispy pancetta, roasted garlic and gorgonzola over some nice mixed greens. The crispy big chunks of pancetta alone were delicious, but paired with the rest of the dish it made for a really good salad. Sadly 1 oyster only bought me 2 bites of salad, a very unfair trade in my mind!


For a main course I had prosciutto wrapped scallops with a corn & bean salad on top of a yellow heirloom tomato gazapacho. The prosciutto was almost impossibly thin, but one bite and you knew that it was enough with a great combination of a perfectly cooked scallop and the smoky fattyness of the prosciutto. It was like an italian surf and turf. The corn and bean salad was actually cold, as was the gazpacho, which made a nice contrast to the right out of the frying pan scallops. The salad itself had a nice crispyness, but didn't fight the flavor of the rest of the dish. I was really excited for the gazpacho, since anytime I see it I have to order it, but half way through the dish, I didn't even realize I was eating it. The taste was excellent, but it was more of a yellow tomato sauce than a gazpacho, lacking the garlic and other vegetables that normally make something a real gazpacho. Still, it was an interesting take on a classic, and I found myself trying to eat all of it. Then again, this is usually the case...

Dessert left a lot to be desired, the strawberry rhubarb cobbler being way too tart, and the creme fraiche ice cream tasting like cold and nothing else. It's not even really worth writing about. Maybe I just ordered the wrong thing, cause the "best ever" key lime pie was delicious, and made me feel like I was down in Florida.

Overall, I would highly recommend Frisky Oyster, just be aware that their menu changes daily, so you never know what you might get. Not many vegetarian options, if at all, but there are non-fish dishes (usually italian).