Made From Scratch: Fettuccine with Meat Sauce

Fettuccine made with parmesan, chives, and ground turkey with spices

Restaurant: Calle Ocho

Trips to the upper west side are not a common occurrences for me, particularly just to eat dinner. The menu, however, and a gift certificate burning a whole in my wallet convinced me to head to Calle Ocho to try the unusual twists on recognizable Latin flavors and dishes. The restaurant has a cozy and chic interior by the bar, where many people simply sat around sipping brightly colored drinks and checking out if anyone was checking them out. Once led into the main dining room, you walk out into a huge cavernous space with loud conversations and waiters running all around. You get the feeling like you walked into a slightly off fine dining restaurant that could be in Latin America, but could also be in California or Miami. This odd effect wears off quickly as soon as you get a chance to study the long drink and food menus.

My dining companion and I wanted to try as much food as possible, and both had 3 different drinks each. Of the 3, none really hit the spot for me like the classic Mojito. Every other drink I tried was just way too sweet and girly, with some even rimmed with sugar. Luckily the food distracted me from the drinks enough to forget how sweet they were. We started with a carnitas and pineapple soft taco platter and a combo of four ceviches. The carnitas were sweet and savory, which would be a common theme throughout the meal. The meat was completely shredded, moist and flavorful. Served with different salsas, pickled onions, radish and cilantro, each taco could be made the way the individual liked it and gobbled up in about two or three bites. The ceviche sampler was a mixed bag. Not all the ceviches we wanted could be a part of the sample (the oysters specifically), and another was mysteriously not available (despite it being early in the night). We ended up ordering the Mariscos, Tropical, and Hondureno. We ordered a fourth, but they mistakenly brought two Mariscos. The Hondureno was far and away the best, combining tuna, coconut milk and pickled jalapenos. The Mariscos, which had lobster, shrimp, lemon and lime were amazing, although as expected, you never get enough lobster in the order. Although the ingredients of the Tropical should have wowed me, the combo of shrimp, roast tomato, mango and other citrus was just overwhelming and instead of the tastes melding together, they just all fought each other.

For main courses we shared the Paella and the Corvina. The Paella was huge, and had no shortage of lobster, scallops or shrimp. In fact, it actually came with 1/2 a lobster sitting right on top. You can't really argue with any Paella that starts with 1/2 a lobster, and has just the right combo of spice and savory flavor to warm your stomach. The Corvina was basically a large piece of chilean seabass, mixed vegetables and a delightfully seasoned broth that was surprisingly flavorful. After just one or two bites I couldn't get enough the perfectly cooked fish and vegetables gently mingling in a sauce that to the average observer looked bland and unassuming. I couldn't pinpoint the flavors of the sauce given its Spanish background (and my lack of knowledge about the cuisine), but I definitely plan on returning for further investigation. A nice side addition was the sweet and green plantains. This sweet and savory combo caused fights over who got the last of each, and should always be at the table when dining at Calle Ocho.

Last but not least, we shared a beautifully prepared and tasting dessert of toasted coconut ice cream, placed within a thin chocolate shell and surrounded by a deep red and almost too sweet raspberry sauce. Although decadent, how can anyone not enjoy the combo of coconut, chocolate and raspberry? It made for a great end to a delicious meal of fancy Latin food that might make a trip back uptown worth it.

A reason to go to the Upper West Side

Beer of the Week: Presidente

Although my first thought when I hear Presidente beer is Fidel, in actuality it's very tasty as far as lighter beers go, and also seems to always get people excited when they see you bring it. Although easier to find than most people think, I rarely see anyone buying it except my friends who hail from the DR and were raised on the stuff. I still remember going over to my friends house back in college for dinner and her mom pulling out Presidente's from the freezer so that they were icy cold. Ever since then I haven't been able to drink them just refrigerator cold, but have to have them icy cold, in an icy glass. Perhaps this is why it is such a popular beer in the DR, where I hear it can get a little warm. The taste always reminds me of Red Stripe, maybe it's just that carribean malt and hops. Either way, you don't drink Presidente because you want to savor each sip, you drink it to remind you of warm summers, and ice cold beer.

Number of beers drank in one sitting: 6 (aka a six pack)

Pair with food: Goes great with the somewhat salty, and hearty Dominican and latin food I've had in the past

Beer fit for a president

Restaurant: Esperanto

Dinner at Esperanto is all about two things, the vibe and the food. Service and tight quarters are not concerns of the owners, who focus more on a funky hip vibe that you can only find down in alphabet city. Cramming as many tables as possible, and as few waiters as possible, may seem like a big negative, but once you sit down and listen to the (very) often live Latin music and take a few sips of the Kiwirinha (Kiwi Caipirinha) or Mojito you won't want to leave any time soon. Kitchy, old world looking Latin "artifacts" adorn the walls, and everyone around you seems to be laughing and smiling and pretty damn attractive. Even better, during the summer they have sidewalk seating so you can enjoy the sun and sip on some delicious drinks and feel for a second like you might be in Latin America.

The food is described as pan-Latin fusion, but really leans heavily on Brazilian influences. Having eaten at Esperanto often, I have had the luck of trying a lot of different dishes. Make sure you don't fill up on the delicious bread and spicy chili and pepper corn laced oil, although it is hard to resist. The crab in banana leaf starter with plantain chips is delicious, with plenty of lump crab, and spices like cumin to accentuate the sweetness of the crab. Plantain crusted goat cheese with cilantro pesto is a nice take on on ingredient not as common to Latin cuisine. The rich goat cheese is cut well by the plantain breading, and the salad and pesto that comes with it. Other favorites include the grilled calamari salad that is light, tasty and a good size portion. The ceviche, while delicious, is not a standout. I've tried the tuna and the snapper, and while both taste good, they are usually either too strongly flavored, or have too much coconut milk to really get the fish flavor.

Entrees include some standards like a Latin spiced pork chop and a shell steak with chimichurri, but where Esperanto excels is with it's fish and more traditional dishes. The chicken is strongly flavored with coriander and quite a bit spicy, while the grilled tuna also has an unexpected kick that is offset by the pairing of collard greens with an orange mojo sauce. This is a theme carried on throughout most of the dishes, pairing a little bit of flavorful heat, with a side dish or sauce that balances it out and doesn't overwhelm the meat or fish. A personal favorite of mine is the Feijoada, which is described on the menu as the national dish of Brazil. Although simply a pork stew with beans it has amazing depth in flavor, and comes with collard greens and farofa. Farofa is not a common ingredient outside of Brazil, and it a flavorful grainy mixture that you add into the stew to your liking to thicken it and add some smokiness. I always try not to use it all, but by the end of the meal I can't help myself. Plus, by that time I'm usually on my third disturbingly strong mojito and my decision making abilities are a little impaired.

Desserts are ok, but nothing out of this world. The coconut flan is very refreshing at the end of the meal, with a nice syrup poured over top. The passion fruit mousse is also delicious, but generally it's not worth ordering an individual dessert for everyone since portion are so big.

Too Cool for Brazil

Condiment of the Week: Salsa Lizano

This "salsa" is really more of a versatile sauce that I have fallen in love with from the moment I've tasted it. Lizano is the ketchup of Costa Rica, and you can find it almost everywhere over there, but hardly anywhere in the U.S. of A. In fact, I have yet to find a place in NYC or nearby that sells it, and have had to order it by the case from a Costa Rican mail order company.

Lizano has a very unique flavor, and describing it will not do it justice. Greenish brown and a smooth thick liquid, it has a very earthy and somewhat salty taste to it, most likely attributed to a variety of vegetables in it ranging from cauliflower to cucumber. Not spicy at all, as most people expect from a salsa, it is rich, and a very bold flavor that stands on it's own in almost anything.

Personally, I like to tell people once you use Lizano with Mexican food like a burrito you won't be able to eat it without it. I use it with any Mexican food or other latin food, particularly with rice and beans. I've also used it as a marinade for meats like chicken, turkey and beef, or for a sauce for meat. Vegetables and more starchy food don't go well with it, but I have mixed it in with chicken salad and tuna salad as a way to give it a different flavor.

Favorite Use: Poured generously on top of a chicken burrito.
Strangest Use: Chicken Salad sandwich, instead of oil and vinegar